![]() Above tree line on Boundary Bald Photo by Bob Hayes (Click on this or any picture for a larger image) |
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Click on an entry to jump to a particular section: |
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The Boundary Range Saturday November 13: "Boundary Peak" (NEHH) Saturday November 13: Mont Gosford (Quebec) Sunday November 14: Boundary Bald (NEFF) Sunday November 14: Coburn Mountain (NEFF) |
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Click here for a complete set of albums of these hikes Return to Papa Bear Home Page |
The Boundary Range: Peaks on or near the Maine/Canada Border
n Friday afternoon, November 12th, I met Gerry Hayes at the Concord NH bus station and we were off to meet her husband Bob and Julie (Cantdog) for a weekend of hiking and climbing in western Maine and the nearby section of Canada. The ironic thing was that Bob & Gerry and I were together for this weekend due to a misunderstanding. I had posted a note on VFTT stating that I was interested in one more trip to Maine before winter set in, and that I was after certain peaks on the New England Fifty Finest list including "Boundary Bald". Bob picked up on this and said that he and Gerry were also interested in "Boundary Peak" and that Julie might want to come along too. I quickly explained that "Boundary Bald" was not the "Boundary Peak" on the New England Hundred Highest list that they were after, but that it was not too far distant so why don't we work out a 2 day schedule and do both "Boundarys". So we did. So here I was in Bob's 3/4 ton GMC SUV heading up to Stratton Maine. We ate at an Irvine truck stop on the Maine Turnpike, and after agreeing to get going at 6:30 AM the next morning and head up Route 27 through Canada to bag "Boundary Peak" (NEHH) and hopefully (if the weather held) to bag the nearby Mont Gosford, we hit the sack at the White Wolf Inn. A word on the so-called "Boundary Range". When the exact location of the Border between the United States and Canada was agreed upon in the 19th century, the section of nearly 150 miles from the headwaters of Halls Stream (a tributary of the Connecticut River
A couple of the peaks we climbed (Boundary Bald and Gosford) and several we didn't climb this time around (Chain of Ponds Snow, Kibby and Caribou) are on another list called the New England Fifty Finest (NE FF) list, also known as the fifty most prominent peaks in New England. Click on the link above for the list of these fifty peaks, and check here to learn about "prominence": Topographic Prominence. And here's a map of New England (also New York) showing (most of) these "most prominent" peaks: NE Prominence map. In one sentence, "topographic prominence" is a measure of how much a peak rises (topographically) from its neighbors, how much it "sticks out", so to speak. Saturday November 13:
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![]() "Boundary Peak" with the boundary swath in the snow (Click on this or any picture for a larger image) |
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We followed the directions from my trip report from last July and reached the park gate house at 7:30 AM. I filled out the form, paid the $5 and asked the man about hiking along the boundary. He said there was a foot and a half of snow in the woods and 2 to 3 feet along the boundary. Meanwhile outside the gatehouse there was barely a dusting. Boy, these guys sure got their stories to match. He also said the last mile or so to the parking spot would be tough going, but looking at Bob's monster SUV, he said it looked like we had a good car. As we drove the 8 miles or so along the park's gravel roads, the snow got increasingly "more real" and deeper. The final half mile we were "breaking trail" through as much of a foot of snow on the road. We were clearly the only car to have made it in all the way to this point. I guess now we started to believe the reports of snow. Amazing, what a little elevation can do! We reached the parking lot and Bob made sure to turn the van around and face slightly down hill so we could get away when we were done, and we got ourselves ready - including putting on the snowshoes we never expected to use. It was 12 degrees, and the snow was very cold and fluffy, and totally unbroken.
We got off at 8:30 AM and Julie broke trail. It was a beautiful cold, clear day with practically no wind. This was one great day to be out! The first mile or so of this route is along a trail, quite steep at times, which
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Starting up along the boundary swath |
We found the snow depth along the boundary was highly variable: from bare rock to 2 - 3 foot drifts. The wind has full play along the swath, but today we had little more than a dead calm. We passed numerous hunting blinds (on the Canadian side), but the snow tended to mute their deadly purpose. We could see our target peak in the distance and we could see just how the trail climbed and turned on its way to this high point. "Boundary Peak", at 3855', is the highest peak on the Canadian border with Maine and in fact is the highest point on the Canadian border east of Montana. We reached the peak just after 10:00 AM and enjoyed the views and took the requisite pictures. Bob and Gerry signed the register and noticed that the last entry was from October 30th. We wondered if we would be the last to visit this peak for this season, or would there be some winter peak baggers who made it up here. Without passable roads it would be quite a long trek in.
We made it down fairly quickly, in just about an hour. My only complaint was pain in my little toe of my left foot on the very steep sections. It was a tough downhill slog in snow shoes. We reached the car at 11:10. It was 26 degrees
Delorme Atlas: Map #28 (and #38 for the start of the road in Canada)
Driving (Ridgerunner's directions):
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Take Route 27 north from Stratton to the Canadian border. At the border stop at the customs station (Canadian) on the far right and check in with the agent. Once past the border, go straight on Route 161 for 3 miles to Woburn - watch the speed limits: they are in kilometres per hour (50 KPH = 31 MPH) - we have seen cars pulled over for speeding. In Woburn, turn left on Route 212 for 2 miles. Look for a sign "ZEC Louise Gosford" on the left. Go left on the dirt road at the sign for 3.8 miles to the park gate house on the left. Go in, fill out the form and pay $5. Proceed on the dirt park road past the gate house into the park. Set your odometer to 0 miles
The path starts at the far corner. Go to the right across the stream and start up the trail. There is a small white sign: "Chasseur à L`affût". |
Topozone:
"Boundary Peak" Map
Bob's GPS track:
"Boundary Peak" GPS track
Distance on foot (one way): Trail: .9 miles, boundary swath 1.1 miles
Total distance: 4.0 miles
Elevation gain: 1080'
Total time: 2:40
Pictures:
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My album for "Boundary Peak"
(with some of Bob's pictures) Bob's album for "Boundary Peak" and Gosford |
![]() Mont Gosfored with its observation tower (Click on this or any picture for a larger image) |
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The drive back along the park road was uneventful - it was nice to be moving in the direction of less and less snow, rather than more and more, as we had earlier that morning. Luckily the temperature was still below freezing so we did not have
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The lower section was icy Photo by Bob Hayes |
The trailhead was marked by prominent signs and a parking lot was there just on the opposite side of the road.
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Along the upper ridge Photo by Bob Hayes |
Around the half way point, where the trail became steeper and the snow got deeper, we passed the couple we had seen in the parking lot. And surprisingly, there was a lean-to on the side of the trail there. The map is not clear where camping spots were. The sign at the road indicated "Plateformes" (which I took to mean tent platforms) 1.6 km past the summit, but there was nothing indicating this lean-to was here unless it was the "Abriruisseau du Cap" indicated on the sign at the road. Anyone know what that means?
Anyway, we passed several signs and one turn which seemed to be in the wrong direction, but it all made sense eventually. Just follow the blazes and the signs. The snow towards the top was a bit tedious, but it was such a beautiful day and the snow was cold and fluffy and didn't clog up our boots, so we soldiered on. I thought
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Papa Bear, Julie and Bob |
It was colder than at the road, perhaps 20 degrees or a little colder, but still there was no wind to speak of. It was a beautiful scene and a great place to be today. The views from the tower were even better than from Boundary. First off, Gosford is higher (1189m = 3900' vs. 3855' for Boundary) and the tower placed us completely above the trees. Furthermore, Gosford lies smack dab in the middle of the "peninsula" of Canada jutting down into Maine, so it is essentially surrounded by the peaks of the boundary watershed divide on three sides. It was a great mountain. I think it is the only peak in Canada from which you can see Mt. Washington (I think we saw it on the far horizon). If it's a clear day and you do Boundary from the Canadian side, do this too.
The trek down was uneventful except for one broken shoelace. I was waiting for someone to hit the ground on the slippery ice near the bottom (most likely me) but happily we all got back to the car on our feet.
Driving directions: See directions above for "Boundary Peak".
Topozone: Gosford Map
Canadian maps available:
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NTS topgraphic map: Woburn, 21 E/7 Sentiers Frontaliers map: normally available at the gate house, but sold out that day |
Distance on foot (one way): 4.5 km (2.8 miles)
Total distance: 5.6 miles
Elevation gain: 1880'
Total time: 3:25
Pictures:
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My album for Gosford
(with some of Bob's pictures) Bob's album for "Boundary Peak" and Gosford |
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At the border crossing, the US agent was a bit more "rigorous" then the Canadian agent who had met us that morning. He asked each of us rather bruskly "Where were you born?" and asked to see ID from each of us (but didn't actually look closely at what we showed him). Passports were not needed, drivers license or voter registration forms worked fine. He briefly looked in the back of the van, and then we were off to Jackman, about 15 miles to the south on Route 201.
Jackman is what one might call a "jerk-water town" if railroads were still running. Nevertheless, this was their busy season with "Welcome Hunters" signs hanging from every store and motel. We found some rooms at the big motel across from the General Store (Bishop's) and we found our rooms, showered, changed, and a few of us had a few cold ones! Then we were off to the Border Cafe (a four table, no table cloth establishment) where Bob had prime rib of all things (which he gave rave reviews) and we all had something that was surprisingly good. Talk about diamonds in the rough. Then it was back to the motel, where we agreed to a 7:00 AM start the next morning, and it was off to bed. Tomorrow was a no hunting day (Sunday) so that was a bit of a relief.
![]() The "Gingerbread House" on Boundary Bald Photo: Bob Hayes (Click on this or any picture for a larger image) |
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Time to put on the snow shoes Photo by Bob Hayes |
We brought our snow shoes but started up the road in bare boots. Just past the slope that stopped our progress, we found an even steeper, icier section which we never could have made it up, even if we had made it past the first hill. After about a half mile on the road, we put on our snow shoes since it was clear we would need them today. Ever the fastest, Julie was in the vanguard breaking trail.
We found the trailhead, which was clearly marked with an old wooden sign "Bald Mountain Tower" (although we knew the tower on the peak was no longer standing). The MMG mentions that the old Fire Warden's cabin is standing "9 minutes" before the trailhead, but it is now gone. In fact a note at the end of the 1999 MMG trail description for Boundary Bald explains: "Update 6/00: The Warden's cabin has been demolished and the trail is reportedly no longer hikeable." The cabin is indeed gone but the trail is perfectly hikeable, so disregard this note. The trail is well blazed with blue paint blazes on trees and rocks, and was easy to follow, although in warm weather there are reportedly some muddy sections.
The trail started rather easy and I could see a set of post holes next to Julie's snow shoe prints for about a half mile. Then the post holes stopped. Evidently someone had tried this trail recently but given up at this point. As we continued on, the trail became rather steep and the snow reached 12" - 18" in places. But the hard part were the innumerable ice covered rocky ledges that were very hard to negotiate in snow shoes. Thank goodness the "bear claw" crampons on the Tubbs I was wearing held their own on this rough section. If you do this trail in the winter be prepared for some rough climbing. I was forever grasping at itty-bitty fir braches to pull me up but usually just getting a fist full of snow. But we made it up this section, very tiring though it was.
Then we came the interesting part! When we got to the ridge top, we hit tree line (actually there were short
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Tough going above tree line Photo by Bob Hayes |
Christopher Keene's book mentions that the trail may be hard to follow across the ridge. This is not really an issue since it matters little which path you follow across the open rocks as long as you stay on the ridge line and hit the opening in the trees as you get to the col, which we did not find to be a problem at all.
Julie had gone ahead to the true peak which was perhaps a half mile beyond the west peak we had gotten to (and where the winds were actually the worst). The traverse was through a slight col where taller trees protected us somewhat from the winds, and then we saw at the top of the true peak ahead of us one of the most surprising sites I ever encountered on a mountain top. It looked like nothing else than a gingerbread house, with a peaked roof and a chimney (it was actually not a chimney, it was a radio tower) and it was encrusted with ice. The scene was out of a fairy tale, or perhaps a Christmas card. But as we approached the building, the winds increased again and we knew we had but a few moments to "enjoy" this summit.
Boundary Bald is one of the New England Fifty Finest, and in my opinion the most spectacular peak of the weekend. But boy, did the mountain gods make us earn this one! But a great mountain it was! The whole scene was spectacular;
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Beautiful views in the cold Photo by Bob Hayes |
But getting down was easier than I thought. I got down over many of the ledges by butt-sliding and soon we were on the lower, gentler slopes. Gerry even said: "Gee, it's almost balmy down here". On the way down we passed a group of 8 French Canadians hiking up, all in bare boots. They probably didn't realize it, but the trail we had broken out allowed them to climb with bare boots in relative ease. I don't know how they did on the summit ridge, but I hope they had enough sense and gear to stay safe from the conditions on top.
We got to the car about 11:45 and piled our extra layers and snow shoes into the back and hustled into the car to get warmed up.
Delorme Atlas: Map #47
Guide books:
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AMC: Maine Mountain Guide, 8th edition - 1999. Page 227. Note: Disregard the note at the end of the article. Christopher Keene North Woods Walks, 2003. Page 43. |
Driving directions:
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Drive north from Jackman on Route 201 7.6 miles to a dirt road on the right (east) side just after The Falls picnic area.
Look for a small square white sign: "Bald Mt. Hiking Trail". Similar signs appear at all subsequent intersections.
Set odometer to 0 miles.
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Topozone: Boundary Bald Map
Bob's GPS track:
Boundary Bald GPS track
Distance on foot (one way): 2.4 miles
Total distance: 4.8 miles
Elevation gain: 1400'
Total time: 3:45
Pictures:
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My album for Boundary Bald
(with some of Bob's pictures) Bob's album for Boundary Bald and Coburn |
![]() The Coburn Mountain Summit Photo: Bob Hayes (Click on this or any picture for a larger image) |
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Well, it was. Coburn is another of the New England Fifty Finest and the highest peak (3718') between the Bigelows
and Katahdin. Getting there involved driving 14.5 miles south of Jackman on Route 201 and taking a dirt road to
the right (west). We are indebted to Bigmoose who gave exact directions in his excellent post on VFTT
He even gave the ID # on the telephone pole at the turnoff. The dirt road in was the roughest yet, but it had
less snow and not much elevation gain compared to the others. The drive in is about 2.5 miles and there are several
washouts or stream fords you must pass. We all said "No way Bigmoose made it in here in a Geo!"
When we got out of the van, I looked at my watch and said "OK, it's 1:18. What should our turnaround time be".
Bob immediately said "3:18", and Gerry quickly rejoined with "2:18". I laughed and said all right, let's pick
The first part of the climb was up a steep winding road
which had ATV tracks that we found we could walk in to
make good time. At the top of this road there was a clearing with a small building
with a radio tower and some solar panels.
This is the location of the top of the abandoned ski slope described in the MMG. At this point there is a gate and
a ditch to keep the ATVs out, and the trail proper
begins. The trail is marked with faded red surveyor's tape tied
around trees, and was easy to follow even with unbroken snow. The snow was 12" - 18" deep and we
began to think it was a mistake to have left our snow shoes in the van. But the trail soon became so steep that
snow shoes would not have been that helpful, so we trudged on. I put on my Stabilicers which I had just bought.
These consisted of Vibram soles with lugs imbedded and which strap to your boots. They are much more rugged
than Yaktrax and I think they added some help on this snow scramble. The trail was the steepest we had done
of the 4 peaks, but with no ledges as we had hit on Boundary Bald, it was easier than that one. And
it was mercifully short, with the trail less than a half mile long and the steep part probably less than .3 miles.
Before we knew it, we broke out to an open but fairly small summit area. There was no exposed ridge as on
The trek down was easy and quick and we arrived back at the van at 3:13 PM, just 1:55 round trip. Julie was
glad to see us since the sun was starting to drop and the car was starting to get cold. But we were done with
a fantastic weekend and were back on the highway for the long trip home before 4:00 PM.
Delorme Atlas: Map #40
Guide books:
Driving (and hiking) directions:
Set odometer to 0 miles.
Note: after hiking about 1 mile on the steep ATV road you will reach a small clearing with a communications hut
on the right. Turn right up the hill, go around the gate and bear right up the trail at the fork. The trail
continues steeply for about .5 miles to the summit.
Topozone: Coburn Map
Distance on foot (one way): 1.5 miles
Elevation gain: 1410'
Total time: 1:55
Pictures:
something in between, and make it 2:45. So we were off. The temperature was probably around 30 degrees.
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The trail gets steeper
Photo by Bob Hayes
Boundary Bald - just a solar powered communications Quonset hut
(much more mundane than Boundary Bald's "Gingerbread House"), and an observation tower.
We had made it up in 67 minutes, so we almost could have made Gerry's one hour turnaround
time. The temperature had dropped to 20 or less, and there was a wind, but nothing like what had hit us on
Boundary Bald. My gloves were wet from sweat and snow and they actually started to freeze to the aluminum supports of
the tower. I had to be careful where I put my hands or I would have had to leave my gloves stuck there. As
we had experienced all weekend, there were more great views in all directions. And of course the obligatory summit photo.
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A view from the tower
Photo by Bob Hayes
Summary:
Coburn Mountain, elevation 3720', prominence 2520', #16 of the NE Fifty Finest.
AMC: Maine Mountain Guide, 8th edition - 1999. Page 225. Note: The MMG describes a different route
from what we used. It follows the old ski slope and meets the ATV road we took at the small communications hut
at the end of the road (the top of the slope) where the trail starts.
Christopher Keene North Woods Walks, 2003. Page 46. Note: The mileage to the turnoff on Route 201
from Jackman is incorrectly given as 16 miles in Keene's book. The turenoff is in fact 14.5 miles south of Jackman.
Drive south from Jackman on Route 201 14.5 miles to a dirt road on the right (west) side. The road starts
after a telephone pole with 2 guys wires and ID #s "550/234/1270".
0.2 miles - bear right on a very rough road, the better road bears left (sorry!)
2.2 miles - reach a large clearing with remains of the old ski lodge, turn right
2.3 miles - reach a small clearing, continue straight on road which turns steeply up to the left
2.4 miles - reach a fork, park and start hiking up to the left where there is a sign: "Coburn Summit"
Bob's GPS track: Coburn GPS track
Total distance: 3.0 miles
My album for Coburn
(with just Bob's pictures, my camera memory ran out.)
Bob's album for Boundary Bald and Coburn
Click here for a complete set of albums of these hikes
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