This sums it up: big, deep, dry.
We have several days here, so we decide to make two short hikes into the canyon. I go to the ranger station, and apply for the backcountry permits. It's hard to find two good two day hikes (many areas are full.) Inspiration hits: I realize that once Maya has hiked out once, there is no way I will ever get her to go back in. I find a good route for a four day hike (down Grandview and out Bright Angel.)
"Ever hiked in the Grand Canyon before?" asks the park ranger.
"Oh, yes," I reply (well, a three hour day-hike counts, right?)
Mile 3. This is Horseshoe Mesa - the old Last Chance Mine. Maya looks happy -- this hiking stuff ain't so hard.
Typical Grand Canyon scenery. I am now carrying an additional three hardcover books. Maya glares at me when I suggest burying "The Life of Catherine Medici" and other critical camping books. Well, it's only 5 more pounds, and at least she'll still have something to read.
Half way there: running water. I have a relaxing soak in a nice pool of water. Later, I notice that those small water plants in the pool are actually leeches.
The two blobs below the tree are Canadian military officers (one infantry, one artillery.) They are hiking in the other direction, and have "Not Recommended" stamped in red on their backcountry pass. They explain that a 36 mile hike in the Grand Canyon, without prior experience, is considered a bad idea. I sit quietly, hoping Maya doesn't ask me what I told the park ranger concerning this "prior experience" thing.
Anyway, we share tea and brandy, discuss Guy Sajer's fine book "The Forgotten Soldier," and take our leave.
We hike on.
A flower.
That's me. We are at Indian Gardens, the base of Bright Angel Trail, and ready for the walk out.
Near the top of Bright Angel Trail.